As we count down our last few days in Sudan,  we had the opportunity to celebrate Thanksgiving with many of our friends from around the world, and celebrate our time together. We were the only two Americans at the gathering, so we got to make up our own rules for the holiday! We started the morning in devotions, sharing what we are grateful for, and spent most of the day, saying thank you, no, thank you to one another to celebrate, as it was otherwise and average Thursday in Juba (as if there was such a thing). As the sun began to set, we prepared our now traditional (mostly because it was available) Thanksgiving feast, of Spanish Rice and Beans, Salsa, Sausages, and gummy candy from around the world. It was a beautiful last night to sit under the stars and celebrate the people who had come to mean so much to us. We found in the midst of the hard things, we had many, many things to celebrate.

 It was a lovely evening of being together late into the night.  Each person shared their memories of us, and then gifted us with a  sheet-like garment usually warn for special occasions, like weddings. We showed them of with a dance, and Scott’s, of course, was just a bit too smal for him, so he improvised and created a Thanksgiving cape (what every Aid Worker turned Super Hero needs on Thanksgiving).  Needless to say, I think we’ve created a new holiday tradition.

   It’s hard to say goodbye to this place. For every hard thing, you realize that something beautiful has gotten to you- the children playing in the streets, the mother’s meticulously sweeping dirt compounds, an entire household gathered around a television under the stars. The morning greetings and the laughter has become a way of life to us here, and we truly will miss many many things. It seems good and right to say goodbye on Thanksgiving. What else could we say, really, but thank you for loving us, thank you for being you, thank you for marching on and moving forward in the face of so many challenges.

 

 We turn our hearts toward this journey home, thankful, being the telling of it, for the faces that await us there, and we hold the tension of the ones we love here, and might not see again.

We remember you friends in Africa, friends at home, friends all over the world, for journeying with us. We are thankful for you!

I’ll have to sit for a long time

 to understand all of this.

After I’ve sat for a long long time,

colored leaves at my feet,

snowflakes softly landing on my hands,

pedals falling from cherry blossoms,

summers green blades pushing through me toes,

I’ll understand

that I’ll never really understand

and that’s enough.

I’ll understand that words

could never hold my gratitude

or bear my sorrow

and I’ll stop asking them to.

But for today,

I’ll walk slowly

feeling Africa crunching beneath me,

toward the work that stretches out to the horizon line,

black hands carrying bundles,

and children singing toward home.

 

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Hint: the guy without the funny mask

I’ll give you three guesses and a hint who’s birthday it is today. Take a moment, if you have it, to wish him happy birthday (don’t worry if you read this a few days late, all comers welcome!).

Accept suprises

that interupt your plans

challenge your dreams,

 give a completely different direction to your day,

and who knows, to your life;

It is not chance,

Leave the Father free  himself

To weave the patterns of your days.

IMG_3095My reading lately has been leaning toward the contemplatives, Richard Rohr, Thomas Keating, Thomas Merton urging me toward accepting the moments I have, rather then the ones I wish could be. They talk of consenting to the moment, even if it’s not what you want or imagined, and asking what can be learned from the situation before you. What is, the great teacher.

  I’m realizing more and more that this sort of acceptance doesn’t come naturally. You really do have to practice accepting and letting go, practice finding the treasures in situations that you didn’t ask for or invite. I suppose the good news is that the more you practice searching these kind of treasures, the more you truly do find. Maybe there is something to that those who seek finding.

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Improvising Universal Precautions at the Medical Workshop

 I just had a great  opportunity to practice letting go again last Friday. I  had spent the day before at a Health Conference with the rest of the health team,  teaching Wilderness Medicine, practicing first response to snake bites and improvising first response at remote car accidents. We had a good time together and laughed alot as we practiced splinting and treating our broken arms and snake bites. I noticed I was itchy, and even had a bit of a rash breaking out, but changed my clothes, took shower and kept on teaching. Later in the evening, the rash seemed IMG_3099k

to be spreading so I took  an anti-histamine and headed to bed.  I woke with a day full of plans in my head, to move up river, meet with the team, and a million other small details when I looked in the mirror and saw my eyes were puffy and face and body were covered in a red raised rash that looked conspicuously like the ones I’d treated for allergic reactions in the Emergency Department many many times. After a very brief conference with myself, I realized that my remote location in Sudan was one of the last places I’d sign up to have an allergic reaction, and went looking for my doctor friend to convince me it was no big deal. Unfortunately, she seemed more worried then I was, and soon we’d put in an IV, given some steroids and headed off to the find a doctor of mine at the UN in case things took a turn for the not- so- easy- to- breathe.

  IMG_3112We arrived at the UN to find my friend Randy, a exuberant doctor from India who just happened to have returned home a few days early from repatriation in India. It was wonderful to see a familiar face, and to meet a new friend Pallabhi. We were treated like royalty at the UN field station, and I was happy to get a cocktail of antihitamines and steroids to keep the reaction at bay. Flanked by the my friends, Tabea and Sonja, a German doctor and Dutch nurse who just happened to be at the medical workshop that week, we decided to take advantage of a MAF plane that just happened to be in the area to pick up passengers from an other organization. My friend Daniella, a German ICU nurse who just happened to be going out on R & R was a welcome companion in IMG_3126case the reaction continued.  We we flew together to Juba where Scott just happened to be stationed, and he was able to board the plane with me that happened to have an extra place for him.  Scott and Daniella sat on the tarmac, giving me an another steroid injectiton  in into the IV when a colleague I’d met in a far away village strolled up to ask what we were up to. He’s a family practice doctor with 30 years experienc in the States, retired now and working in  a remote part of Sudan. You guessed it- he just happened to be flying to Nairobi with us for the weekend.  By the time we arrived in Nairobi,  I felt like I was watching a greater hand weave all these little miracles into the tapestry of a tender concern for me. I didn’t mention that the rash and didn’t return again untili we’d safely landed on Nairobi’s, and had stepped foot into the hospital.

  It  turns out these things don’t just happen at all.  It’s humbling to

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Chocolate fudge cake, and after doctor treat

thing of the way things might have gone if we didn’t have all the details conspiring to bring us safely to Nairobi.   It has again reminded me the power of people praying for before we knew we needed it. I know it doesn’t always go that way, but today, I’m feeling really grateful that they did last week.  I spent the day with another sobering gratitude, realizing that my friends in Sudan would not have had the option to be evacuated if something went wrong.  And certainly, few people in the world have access to the kind of chocolate cake my husband buys me after every visit to the doctor. 

 The plot continues to thicken.  We’re trying to determine the reason for allergice reaction, as  all of us have a great deal of stock in not happening again. There are many theories, and I won’t bore you with the details.  It’s a bit tricky. The doctors say that it may have been a random event, that will never happen again, or it could happen again next week.  The really tough part is everyone agrees that a remote part of Sudan is not the best place in the world to have another one, and until there are more answers, I’ve lost my ticket to return to my little Tukul, the muddy streets, my friends and neighbors there and the work at hand.

  Tough work, letting go. As I said, I woke up last week with my own plan to start up the Nile, back to life, back to work, and found myself on a plane heading in the other direction.  There’s a very real chance that I won’ t be able to return to life in the field, to the clinic, to the people. It has been a lesson in loving what you have while you have it, not knowing when you’ll find yourself heading in the opposite direction.   It has been a lesson in gratitude for what is, much more then for what cannot be, and most of all, it is an opportunity to consent to plans that are bigger then mine, being willing to embrace them, grieve them when necessary, and move forward.

  The adventure continues, and we’ve all got a front row ticket together.  We’ll keep you posted. In the meantime, if you are ’suprised’ by a flat tire, a sick child, an event, welcomed or unwelcomed, that seems to be taking you in the opposite direction, we’ll invite you to join us.  You certainly aren’t alone. Try saying yes anyway, and see where it leads. It is not chance, leave the Father free himself to weave the patterns of your days.

ZebraWe didn’t really know what to expect–we had read the guide books and talked to friends.  They all said the same thing–go to Masai Mara, you will see some incredible animals!  I thought it would be a fun trip for my Mom who came to visit last week on her way home from visiting my sister and brother-in-law in India.  I imagined we might see some nice giraffes and maybe some wildebeest, zebra, and cape buffalo.  We booked three nights with a local company, Jocky Tours, and headed off . . .

We took an evening safari drive the first night and were absolutely blown away.  Standing in the safari van (the main part of the roof is lifted like a big sun roof) we were greeted by several wildebeest and zebra just past the entrance of the park.  While we were still savoring the fun of these new animals, we spotted the tall heads of giraffes above the acacia trees on a far hill.   Their  beautiful combination of awkwardness and grace were so much fun to see as they loped along and chewed on the tops of thorny acacia.

Giraffe

Soon we hurried off, our driver got a tip that lions were spotted and we found to our amazement a pride of five lions lazing in the late afternoon light.

Lion

The evening drive continued like a safari special on the discovery channel as we saw cheetahs, leopards, tons of antelope, buffalo, and beautiful scenery.

Leopard

Overwhelmed by the drive, we joked that we could go home happy that evening having seen more than we imagined already.  We didn’t have any idea what the next days would hold.

Gladdy and  Buffalo

Heading out the next day, we enjoyed the morning greetings from antelope of all types (we saw 7 different kinds!), wildebeest, cape buffalo, and zebra.  By this point the initial amazement at so many different kinds of animals had worn off and we could enjoy the beauty of the diverse animals.  My favorite were still the giraffe, and Glad voted for the Zebra.  Before we could fully decide, we came across one of the most incredible sights–a lion trailed by two cubs.  They followed closely behind her and quickly took to the brush to avoid the eyes of the tourists!  Amazed (again!) we moved on to see another leopard (they are a bit rare) with a cub as well!  The leopard was too fast for a picture, the lions obliged us a few . . .

Lion and Cubs

We were hoping to complete our viewing of the big 5 (buffalo, elephant, rhino, lion, leopard), three of which we had already seen the night before.  We quickly made progress towards this goal when we found a rhino hiding in the brush of a dry riverbed.  Watching through the binoculars, we discovered there were more than one–three to be exact, and one of them was a baby!  We watched with delight as the massive, dinosaur-like-creatures went about their morning.  RhinoFrom there we headed on a longer drive towards the Mara River.  On the way I spotted a large grey lump in the distance.  As we approached it slowly took the form of an elephant.  What fun to see elephants in the wild, with plenty of space to wander and roam!  After a few minutes we came across another bunch in the distance with a baby trailing the group!

Elephant babiesWe continued to see beautiful antelope, elephant, and birds (the secretary bird is quite unique!) on our way to the river where we saw hippos and even a croc (just his snout was showing in the water).

HipposAfter a picnic lunch we headed back towards our camp to relax after another great day.  We had seen all of the big 5 in one day and, on top of that, each one had babies with them!

Mom at campWe went into the next day wondering what could possible top the previous day and a half.  Enjoying nice views of the park and beautiful wildlife in every direction, we happily bounced along in the safari van, stopping here and there to see an animal up close or enjoy a new bird (the lilac breasted roller was one of our favorites!).  Soon, we were impressed by a group of three cheetahs by the roadside.  As we watched them, they seemed quite interested in a young impala not too far away.  Our curiosity and excitement grew as we watched one slowly move towards it.  In a matter of seconds, the cheetah accelerated towards the impala as the impala started off.  The cheetah quickly gained on it and made the kill right in front of us.  Talk about amazing!  I had to pinch myself just to remember I wasn’t watching this all on TV.  The other two cheetahs joined to partake  of the meal and we watched them feast!

Hungry CheetahsStill on a high from the cheetah viewing, we cruised around the park, seeing more elephants with babies and other great sites.  As we came up the side of a hill, a lion eating something caught our eye.  A few other vans were parked near by and our presence must have interrupted his meal, but rather than walking away, he decided to walk straight towards us!  He walked with his food, a young zebra, in his mouth within ten feet of our van.  He stopped for a moment on the hillside at eye level and stared right at us–quite a powerful and humbling experience.

Lion with zebraWe had to call it quits after this finale, overwhelmed by the majesty and beauty of God’s creation.  The whole experience was a bit surreal and one that will remain with us for the rest of our lives.

In addition to the incredible animals, we cherished our time with my mom who we hadn’t seen for ten months.  Communication in  Sudan is difficult, so we loved catching up on each other’s lives and hearing how everyone back home is doing.  It was a sweet time together.

Scott and Mom

 

Not to paint an unrealistic picture, we weren’t alone in the park, there were many other vans  and land cruisers and often good animal sightings were surrounded by vehicles.  It is hard to know how much this impacts the animals, but I can’t imagine it is too positive.

touristsWe had a great driver named George who had been driving in Masai Mara for quite some time (as evident by the wildlife he was able to help us see!).

I have never seen the quantity and diversity of animal life anywhere else in my life as we saw in our three short (but quite full!) days in Masai Mara.  It is yet another testament to God’s fun creativity and beauty.

Masai MaraSunset over the Mara

IMG_2849One of our undertakings on during my last rotation was a de-worming campaign for all the school children in the village where I live. I’d never done a de-worming campaign before, but then, nobody had, so it was at the very least a great opportunity to learn. Funny how you can become the village expert on a topic, just by being silly enough to say, ‘yes, I”ll do it.’    

 This actually turned out to be a great opportunity to work side by side with my Sudanese counterpart, known as ‘Commander Deng,’ and to go into the schools every day and get to meet the majority of the school aged kids in Melut- all 2500 of them!

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 Commander Deng had carried out handwashing campaign several weeks before, going to each of the schools and demonstrating the hows and why’s of handwashing. On de-worming day, it was rewarding to see the students lining up and practicing with great care the handwashing lessons they had seen demonstrated several weeks before. The World Health Organization has made it clear that the biggest single intervention that could be made in the preventatative health world are simple attainable changes like washing hands, so it was encouraging to see them showing off their new skills.

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IMG_2826  After their hand  washing performance, each child came to a table manned by teachers from each school, local health care workers from the clinic and volunteers from Medair and around town.  Just before the handwashing campaign, Commander Deng and I did a one day teaching with 2 teachers from each school on the benefits of handwashing, and de-worming as well as  formulating a plan with each of them how to carry it out in their schools. They really caught on well, and by half way through the first day had decided to expand into two ’stations’ for handwashing and de-worming.

IMG_2746   De-worming is a process of killing off all the soil based worms that plague children’s tummies, causing anemia, illness, low attendance and pre-disposition to other serious illnesses like Malaira and TB. The medicine we use for ‘de-worming’ is called Mebendazole, and the dose consists of 5 tiny tablets to be chewed by each child. My favorite position at the treatment table was just next to the CHW responsible for making sure the children chewed all their tablets.  It was truly entertaining to watch them make chewing faces all day llogn to remind the students to chew all the tablets. I learned valuable IMG_2831Arabic words such as Chew them all, and stick out your tongue at my particular post.

 It was an adventure in public health, with many lessons to be learned. In the end, we called it a ‘pilot’ and got a pretty good model for how to repeat these campaigns every 6 months as recommended by WHO. Most of all, it was a delightful way to explore the school houses, from cement buildings, to grass huts and an excuse to play with the beautiful smiling children that wave at me every day as they walk to school in uniforms held together by safety pins and mom’s stitching.  What and honor to be with them and I continue to be impressed by the need for education in Sudan, and saw in the faces of these children, the doctors and midwives, pharmacists and gaurds that keep our clinic running and the country of Sudan moving forward, slowly slowly toward peace.

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We’re in Nairobi again and I’ve been making pots of Butternut Squash soup.giftshots 004 Thought this is a our second October in a tropical, equatorial location, all those years living in Colorado and Oregon have left me with a small timer that tells me when it’s time to eat roasted vegetables, bake bread and settle in for a long winter’s nap.Fortunately for me, the rains have come this week to Kenya, and the chill has afforded the opportunity to wear socks and the occasional wool hat for effect (until I have to take it off  because I”m roasting) and even my hoody sweatshirt. The folks around me continue to complain that it’s cold, and I just smile and say, ‘it’s supposed to be, it’s October.”

It’s nice to be away long enough to realize what a luxury the seasons are. It’s easy to forget that the whole world is not sharing in this mysterious rotation of Spring to winter, to summer to Autumn and back again. I was trying to tell my Sudanese friend, Khor, about the seasons we have in where I come from:

Me:”Well, there aren’t just 2, there are 4, and …”

Khor interupts: “Well, which is the rainy season?”

Me: “Well, in Oregon, they’re all the rainy season, really..”

Khor crinkles his nose and makes a funny face

I continue: “In the summer it rains a little less, and in the winter, the rain sometimes freezes and comes as snow…”

Khor: Snow?

I leave that one and talk about the spring when the flowers bloom

Khor: “So, it’s the harvest time?”

Me: “No, more like the time for planting…”

Khor nods, this is a little more clear..

I continue: “In the fall, the air turns cold, and the leaves chance colors and fall, except for the evergreens, which stay green all year..”

I suddenly realize the great difficulty I’d have describing the hay rides, the IMG_2905pumpkin patches, apple cider, wearing mittens, golden aspen groves and the first frosty morning heralding another winter, and all the magic that takes place in me as I watch the turning of another year..

I realize that I”ve drifted off into silence, contemplating October, and Khor seeming to feel grateful that he doesn’t live in such a complicated world as I, and we share the rest of our boatride, just happy to be together under the blazing October sun.

IMG_0873The last rotation flew by, and had some interesting twists and turns. Rain has come again to Upper Nile, and with it a whole new variety of flying creatures in all shapes and forms.  One evening when Scott was working on a project in another part of Sudan, I”d reached my limit with the squeaking scratching, flapping creatures that had overtaken my room. The final straw came just before the generator was going off, when I found the wee bat flapping his way through my sheets- in my bed! I took my sheets outside, shook them out andIMG_1025 promptly grabbed my things and headed out-of-doors to sleep in a mosquito dome under a tree in the middle of the compound. I made my little home away from home, set up the bed, zipped myself inside, far away from the flying mice (also known as bats) that had been frequenting my room. I read for a while and turned out the light, and as my head lay on the pillow, I heard a faint scratching sound. In my head, I began the familiar conversation, Inside or Outside? I don’t really care if it’s a fire breathing dragon, as long as it’s on the other side of my flimsy net.  I’d convinced myself it was outside, whatever it was, and I IMG_1270plopped down on the pillow again. Almost asleep for a second time and the insistand scratching began again… Definitely inside, I thought this time and began looking for the culprit. After several moments with my dim flashlight, I saw my unwelcomed guest… a small black bat, hobbling around the inside of my mossie dome, near my pillow.  I know that I’ve acclimated to this place, because rather then screaming or swearing, I thought to myself, well, that’s not ideal, is it? A chase insued, and I learned that night that bats can be quite resourceful when they don’t want to be caught and thrown out. Finally I found jar, caught him and sealed him in and tossed it it outside.  I layed my head down on the pillow a third time and trying to go to sleep, had a nagging thought that if I didn’t get up and get the bat out of the jar, he’d die in the night. Perhaps this wouldn’t be a problem for me, since I did find him breaking and entering, but ever since Scott started greeting all of these creatures, from scorpions to snakes to bats, with the familiar,’ hello, creature of God, ‘ I’ve had a bit more trouble doing them in… So, I got up and put on my rain boots and escorted the bat to his new home away from mine. I”m not sure what time it was when I finally settled in, but I don’t rememember my head hitting the pillow the fourth time.

From our cocoon.. isn’t that how the old saying goes? The only difference, I IMG_2771suppose, is that it wasn’t a cocoon,  really, just a very far away place, with little internet, lots of work to do and too many bugs just when you finally had a few minutes to write a letter to someone you love. So, the blog hasn’t seen much change lately, but hopefully we’ll have a bit more luck in the next rotation.  Thanks everybody, for checking in anyway, waiting patiently and staring at the same picture of a tomato that has been gracing our blogs for weeks.  We’ve made it back to Nairobi and will be heading out for a bit of family time with Mom Griebling who is stopping in for a few days visit, but we’ll try and post a few blogs that have been brewing over the last few weeks.

Scott'swork in Akobo, teaching SWAT technicians

Scott'swork in Akobo, teaching SWAT technicians

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IMG_3337I suppose I have to agreee with Becca, that

Home is where you’re flowers and

veggies are growing

It takes a village to raise a cucumber…

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